Indelible India




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    EDEN Luxury Travel, The Steamill, Steamill Street, Chester, Cheshire CH3 5AN

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    Our Travel Boutique

    27 King Street, Knutsford, Cheshire WA16 6DW

    Telephone
    01565 656000

    Opening Times
    Our travel boutique embraces a flexible work environment.
    Visit us in-person Monday to Thursday, 9:30am - 5:00pm.
    Our dedicated team also works remotely on Fridays,
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    Indelible India

     

    “In gearing up for our epic Indian adventure, we sat down and watched ‘The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel’. In it, Judy Dench’s character says, ‘India hits you like a wave. If you resist you will be knocked down. But if you dive into it, you will be alright.’ And boy was she right!”

    Eden original

    Words by LOUISE FURNISS, TARA LLOYD & VICTORIA PURVES

    WELCOME TO DELHI

     

    “We’ll never forget our visit to India. Our first car trip in Delhi felt like a rollercoaster ride, with cars, trucks and people overloaded on bikes and motorcycles and the odd cow-led cart thrown into the mix. No one pays any attention to any of the rules… It was just like the movies and we loved every second!

    We had heard India was a sensory overload for travellers and now we were experiencing it first-hand! Delhi was a complete surprise, especially the contrast between old and new, from the pristine, well-planned avenues created by the British to Chandi Chowk’s chaotic markets, where labyrinthine streets are lined with shops selling everything – a rickshaw or walking tour is unmissable.

    And by no means should Delhi be treated as a mere gateway to other areas of the country. There’s so much to absorb in India’s capital. It’s an architecture enthusiast’s dream, home to the most impressive Mughal buildings this side of Agra and visitors really shouldn’t miss the sprawling Red Fort (formerly the Mughal Royal Palace).

    If, like us, you’re not quite brave enough to try the local street food, then head to Bukhara to taste the local Tandoori specialities; or take a trip back in time and enjoy High Tea at the world-famous Imperial Hotel.

    WHERE TO STAY

    THE IMPERIAL, NEW DELHI

    If you enjoy a spot of nostalgia, old-world glamour, astonishing artwork and an über-central location, you won’t want to stay anywhere else. It’s a luxurious oasis from the chaos of the city (which is home to 18 million people no less!), set on seven acres, with 235 rooms and a gigantic swimming pool.

    Four restaurants include the stand-out Spice Route – a local hotspot, so reservations here are a must. Vibe-wise, it feels like the epitome of New Delhi – expect to see business people taking meetings in the lobby, The Real Housewives of Delhi ‘doing lunch’ and the younger generation perusing the chic shopping arcade. Definitely the best option for anyone seeking a classical cocoon with modern amenities and sublime surrounds in which to unwind.

    UDAIPUR

     

    Often called the Venice of the East, Udaipur is Rajasthan’s most romantic city. It’s a gem of a destination in a valley surrounded by green hills and the clear blue waters of Lake Pichola.

    We absolutely fell in love with Udaipur, it feels just like a movie set: wherever you cast your eyes, there’s something to be in awe of. The city thrives around Lake Pichola: so charismatic it was used as a backdrop to the James Bond movie, Octopussy, in 1983. A man-made lake, said to have been created in 1362 AD, it’s enveloped by architectural masterpieces – lofty palaces, temples, forts, bathing ghats and elevated hills, laced with centuries of culture and feels like it belongs to another era. The focal point is the Lake Palace Hotel, a vision of sparkling marble.

    Elsewhere, the City Palace complex is still home to the Maharana of Mewar who possesses one of the oldest lineages in the country. The palace itself consists of four major and several minor palaces forming a single but huge façade overlooking the lake.

    The oldest part, which dates back to the 16th century, is now home to a museum with an eye-catching collection of sculptures, curios, antiques and artwork. We could have easily spent hours wandering amongst the halls and galleries. And, when you step into the gardens, it’s easy to imagine the elephants roaming around the grounds: in fact, you can still see the gigantic spikes on the gates which served to keep any enemies on horseback from charging!

    We loved how easy Udaipur is to navigate, too. Small and compact, it’s very walkable, so you can take a stroll from the palace and wander through the markets and bazaars. We were lucky enough to obtain an invite to the Vipul Shah gallery, housed in a 17th-century haveli store, hidden away amongst the meandering alleyways. Celebrities just can’t get enough of this Udaipur-based, bohemian-inspired handbag label!

    Working up an appetite after all the shopping, lunch at Ambrai shouldn’t be missed. Perched on the western banks of Lake Pichola, this open-air restaurant has unmatched views of the Jagdish Temple, Gangaur Ghat, City Palace, Lake Palace and Jag Mandir. And for dinner, you can’t beat Upré by 1559 AD – Lake Pichola Hotel’s rooftop restaurant, with bragging rights to outstanding views of the City Palace and the surrounding ghats, with a pool and cabanas for languid lounging.

    WHERE TO STAY

    UDAIPUR

    There are some excellent hotels in this vivacious city but, for us, it has to be the phenomenal Oberoi Udaivilas. Inspired by the palaces of Rajasthan and not one for the budget-conscious, it’s spread over 50 acres on the banks of Lake Pichola, on the 200-year-old hunting grounds of the Maharana of Mewar. From the grand entrance to the grounds and the reflecting pools, this place completely blew us away. One of the most photographed hotels in India, rising from a rock foundation on its own island, the Taj Lake Palace offers the most heart-stopping views of the City Palace (even more moving of an evening when the sun sets and the vast palace lights twinkle in the distance).

     

    It’s marvellous to be “floating” in tranquil luxury, feeling so removed from the city, but within easy reach by boat. And the arrival alone is amazing – you feel just like a movie star, bathed in a swash of rose petals sprinkled from above. Leela Palace is a good option for the more budget-conscious who still want to stay on the lake but aren’t looking for such an authentic Indian vibe. Or, for those seeking something a little more off-the-beaten-track, Raas Devigarh holds a commanding position in the Aravali Hills (around 45 minutes from Udaipur).

    JAIPUR

     

    Think of Jaipur, the capital of Rajasthan, and the catchy ‘Jai Ho’ from Slumdog Millionaire will almost certainly hold a concert in your head all day! But on arrival, the first thing you’ll notice is the colour: lots of it and all made ethereal by the sun.

    Often called the Pink City, this bustling urban delight glistens like candy floss with its peachy-pink buildings. Grand hilltop forts, graceful palaces, temples and monuments are stamped here and there: with a million saris, camel carts, cows, rickshaws, jewellery shops and bazaars providing the chaos in between. Centuries-old architecture and the sheer energy of modern India combine to create a truly magical destination.

    Just outside of the city is the vast 16th-century Amber Fort – unmissable if you’re anywhere in the vicinity of Jaipur. The City Palace is exemplary too: if you’re really lucky, you might catch a glimpse of the dashing Maharaj who still holds residence.

    The extraordinary and ingenious UNESCO-listed structures of Jantar Mantar – their curves of steel sparkling in the midday sun – come together to form Jaipur’s astronomical observatory. Helping interpret the position of celestial bodies and calculate local time, it’s also home to the world’s largest stone sundial. And the Pink City’s high-end designer boutiques, jewellery stores, contemporary home décor stores and bustling bazaars (Johari is a mecca for jewellery lovers) leave shopaholics spoilt for choice when it comes to retail therapy!

    Our top tip for dinner? Bar Palladio for classic Italian fare and craft cocktails in the most seductive of settings – our Instagram feed has long been plastered with photos of its luxe interiors and artisan cocktails. Set within the grounds of Narain Niwas Palace, it’s wall-to-wall opulence with Italian Renaissance-inspired design and Mughal architecture!

    WHERE TO STAY

    Nestled in 32 acres of landscaped gardens and reflection pools, with over 100 peacocks roaming freely and accommodation clustered around private courtyards, The Oberoi Rajvilas is a little oasis from the hustle and bustle of the city and an incomparable base from which to explore Jaipur’s historic forts, monuments and palaces. Or, if you’re seeking the world’s most expensive hotel stay, look no further than the palatial, four-floor, 16,000-square-foot Maharaja Pavilion Suite at The Raj Palace Hotel.

    RANTHAMBORE

    In search of the elusive Bengal Tiger in Ranthambore National Park, a wildlife reserve near the town of Sawai Madhopur.

    Lucky enough as we’ve been to have enjoyed many African game drives over the years, we knew that, as we hit our alarms and got ready for our mini expedition, seeing wildlife in India can be a hit-and-miss affair, particularly when it comes to seeking out the Bengal Tiger – one of the planet’s most elusive animals!

    Go in April or May when the warm weather coaxes the tigers to popular watering holes for the best chance of spotting one. Renowned for roaming large territories within this monumental mass of untamed jungle, amidst a scattering of historic relics, including the 10th-century Ranthambore Fort, we were on tenterhooks the entire time. But, after what seemed like hours, a rustling of leaves under our Jeep was the alarm call we’d all been waiting for… A tiger must be close!! Then, stalking his way through the dense forest, we saw the most majestic, though somewhat intimidating, male Bengal Tiger! Believe us, absolutely nothing will prepare you for this moment. But these bewitching big cats aside, you could also spot sloth bears, jackals, Indian foxes, hedgehogs, hyenas, 300-plus species of bird and, if you’re really lucky, a lone leopard lounging in the trees. An encounter we’ll never forget.

    WHERE TO STAY

    For that full-on safari experience, head to Suján Sherbagh. Set on the outskirts of the National Park, it’s an extremely appealing, eclectic yet classical boutique property with a lovely cosy ambience and a bar area with library and squishy sofas – a bucolic spot to settle back after an early game drive or for aperitifs. The pool’s backdrop is all jungle, so it feels like you’re in the middle of nowhere… And it has been known for tigers to be seen visiting the camp at night!

    AGRA

     

    Ask anyone to name just one thing when they think about India and we guarantee 90% of people will say the Taj Mahal. But few will know anything about the city of Agra itself, home to this wonder of the world and the only Indian city with three UNESCO World Heritage Sites – the Taj Mahal, Agra Fort and Fatehpur Sikri.

    The Taj Mahal is the world’s most extravagant monument to love; a throbbing white mass of marble and the globe’s most recognisable love letter. For anyone worried about the hype, trust us, it is every bit as wonderful as people say. Between the three of us, we’ve seen many of the Seven Wonders of the World, so we didn’t have too high an expectation, but now, if you were to ask us what we consider to be the most beautiful building we have ever seen, there would be no contest… The Taj Mahal would reign supreme.

    Top Tip: When travelling in India, you really should travel by train at least once, even if it’s just to get a taste of the organised chaos of it all! And, if you catch the right trains (the fastest of which can get you from city to city in just over an hour and a half), you can easily visit the Taj Mahal from Delhi and soak up the various vistas along the way.

    WHERE TO STAY

    For us, the only place to stay in Agra is The Oberoi Amarvilas. One of India’s most celebrated hotels, it’s a mere 650 yards away from the East Gate of India’s most famous attraction and was designed so that every room has an unobstructed view of the Taj Mahal. You can even watch the monument change in hue from sunrise to sunset while lying in bed! And we loved that one of our favourite Indian dishes – the Murgh Makhani – is a local speciality here!

    UNRAVELLING THE MISCONCEPTIONS

     

    “India is dirty and chaotic.” This is only half true. The reality is that India’s vibrant cities also offer luxury hotels, fabulous fine-dining, nightlife and high-end shopping.

    “All Indians are Hindus.” To say this is like saying all Indians speak Hindi, which is just not true. India is a land of various beliefs. Hinduism is the dominant religion, but it coexists with others like Buddhism, Islam, Christianity, Jainism and Sikhism.

    “Hindi is India’s national language.” Languages in India are as diverse as its culture and religion, with some 780 languages spoken across the country. We couldn’t believe how many people speak English; they use it to communicate within families and, as there are so many dialects, it still seems to be the norm.

    “Snake charmers are everywhere.” Surprisingly, snake charming has never been widely seen across India. It was mainly popular in Rajasthan, and we only saw one on our entire trip!

    “All Indian foods are spicy.” Spices are widely used in Indian cuisine but, just because dishes contain spices, it doesn’t mean they’re all spicy. That said, if, like us, you do like a bit of spice, let the chefs know as they do tend to think our British palates can’t handle it!

    “Cows roam the streets.” This is actually true, and it fascinated us. They roam around very freely and all seem super healthy as they are well-fed by locals who believe that feeding these sacred creatures will give them access to a higher being. This can also be said for dogs – again you do see many roaming around, but most looked to be healthy and, overall, we felt that India generally has much more regard for animals than many other countries we’ve visited.”

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