Paris




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    CITY GUIDE TO PARIS

    Grand monuments, village-like neighbourhoods and small daily rituals make Paris unmistakably, well, Parisian.

    WHY CHOOSE PARIS?

    Paris is one of the few major capitals where daily life still takes centre stage. Cafés stay full for hours, markets serve neighbourhoods rather than visitors and even the landmarks feel woven into everyday life.

    The headline attractions more than live up to expectations. The Louvre, the Eiffel Tower, Notre-Dame and the Musée d’Orsay are worth every queue – but Paris becomes a different, more interesting place once you move beyond them.

    The Marais preserves medieval street patterns and 17th-century hôtels particuliers, contemporary galleries and some of the city’s best food shopping. The covered passages of the 2nd and 9th arrondissements – glass-roofed arcades dating from the early 19th century, most of them operating much as they always have – provide one of the quieter ways through the city centre. And the neighbourhoods on the Left Bank, from Saint-Germain through to the 13th, completely change in character from one street to the next.

    Culture extends far beyond the museums. Monet’s Water Lilies are among the highlights of the Musée de l’Orangerie, while contemporary galleries occupy buildings whose history stretches back hundreds of years. Elsewhere, vintage Hermès specialists, independent ateliers and boulangeries using long-established techniques form part of a culture of craftsmanship that feels every bit as relevant now as it ever did.

    A covered passage leads to an unexpected courtyard. An unassuming bistro turns out to serve one of the best meals of the trip. Medieval stonework appears beside contemporary architecture without anyone seeming particularly concerned by the contrast. Paris can be beautiful, certainly, but what distinguishes it is how naturally all these different layers coexist.

    ESSENTIAL EXPERIENCES

    EIFFEL TOWER

    Originally intended as a temporary structure – the entrance arch for the World’s Fair – the Eiffel Tower has been the most recognisable symbol of Paris for over 130 years. The second floor observation deck at 115 metres gives arguably the most satisfying overview of the city – high enough to see everything from the broad sweep of the Seine to the ordered geometry of the boulevards below and close enough to identify individual landmarks. The summit at 276 metres adds scale but does lose some of the detail. Sunset is one of the most popular times to visit, with dinner at Le Jules Verne on the second floor of the tower itself (two Michelin stars under chef Frédéric Anton and with its own private lift entrance) being especially popular. As one of the strongest fine dining addresses in the city, the sunset slots sell out fastest so book your reservation early – they open 90 days in advance.

    LOUVRE MUSEUM

    The largest art museum in the world and one of the most visited, managing your visit to the Louvre matters as much as the collection itself. Pre-booked timed entry avoids the longest queues at the pyramid entrance, and a private curator-led tour offers a more thoughtful way to explore a collection that spans Egyptian antiquities, Greek and Roman sculpture, and European painting from the medieval period through to the 19th century. The Mona Lisa of course draws the largest crowds in the Denon Wing, though the surrounding rooms – Veronese’s vast Wedding at Cana directly opposite, the Italian Renaissance galleries on either side – are often less busy and, for many visitors, more memorable. After-hours access, when the main galleries empty and the building takes on a different character, is one of Paris’s stronger private experiences – with the Venus de Milo virtually to yourself, and stories most visitors never hear.

    SEINE RIVER CRUISE

    The Seine is the thread that ties much of Paris together, linking many of the city’s best-known landmarks along a route that reveals how they relate to one another. From the water, Notre-Dame, the Louvre, the Musée d’Orsay and the Eiffel Tower become part of a wider landscape of quays, riverside architecture and bridges linking the Left and Right Banks – relationships that can be difficult to appreciate from street level. Day cruises run regularly from the Pont de l’Alma and several other embarkation points, but it’s the evening cruises that prove particularly popular, when the monuments begin to illuminate and the city takes on a whole other character. Private yacht charters and smaller river vessels allow the route to be taken at whatever pace suits, with catering and champagne service arranged as required.

    MONTMARTRE

    Montmartre’s reputation as an artists’ quarter is well established, but much of its appeal comes from the fact that it feels somewhat removed from the Haussmann boulevards below. Set at the city’s highest point, the steep streets, staircases and small squares around the hill create a village-like neighbourhood whose layout predates Haussmann’s remodelling. Picasso, Modigliani and Toulouse-Lautrec all worked here in the early 20th century, and though the neighbourhood has changed considerably since, the Bateau-Lavoir studios where much of that work happened still stand on Place Émile Goudeau. Sacré-Cœur at the top of the hill is as much about the city view as the basilica itself. Below, the Place du Tertre fills with portrait painters through the day. The quieter streets behind it – Rue Lepic, Rue des Abbesses – reveal more of everyday life, while an evening at the nearby Moulin Rouge provides a more singular perspective on Parisian entertainment.

    CHAMPS-ÉLYSÉES

    Running for nearly a mile and a half from Place de la Concorde to the Arc de Triomphe, the Champs-Élysées is one of the world’s most recognisable boulevards, its wide pavements lined with luxury boutiques, cinemas, theatres and cafés. Home to flagship stores of most of the major French fashion houses, and combined with the surrounding streets of the 8th arrondissement – Avenue Montaigne, Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré – it’s also one of the world’s most concentrated luxury shopping districts, so it’s worth booking a private shopping guide to help you navigate both the established houses and the smaller ateliers that rarely advertise. But the real highlight is often the Arc de Triomphe at the western end. Commissioned by Napoleon in 1806 and completed in 1836, its roof terrace serves up one of the clearest panoramic views of Haussmann’s urban planning, with broad avenues radiating in every direction.

    OUT-OF-TOWN MUST SEES

    PALACE OF VERSAILLES

    Distance: 45 minutes by car

    Built for Louis XIV and expanded across several subsequent reigns, Versailles is the most complete surviving example of absolutist royal ambition in Europe – 2300 rooms, 67 staircases, gardens extending across 800 acres and a Hall of Mirrors, widely regarded as one of the most extraordinary interiors on the continent. Early morning entry or private access before public opening makes a real difference. The Trianon palaces and Marie Antoinette’s estate are a more intimate counterpoint to the main château, with La Petite Venise in the gardens and Gordon Ramsay au Trianon – one Michelin star, open Tuesday to Saturday – available for lunch and dinner.

    CHÂTEAU DE FONTAINEBLEAU

    Distance: 1 hour by car

    While Versailles often attracts greater attention, Fontainebleau delivers a deeper understanding of royal life. Occupied by French monarchs for more than seven centuries, its architecture accumulates across the reigns of François I, Henry IV and Napoleon – each leaving distinct traces in the building. The château is particularly associated with Napoleon, who signed his abdication here in 1814, and his private apartments, throne room and personal study are among the most intact imperial interiors in France. The surrounding forest – 25,000 acres of oak, beech and sandstone outcroppings – has enticed painters and walkers since the Barbizon School artists settled on its edge in the 1830s.

    ÉPERNAY

    Distance: 90 minutes by car

    Épernay’s Avenue de Champagne runs for just under a mile between the town centre and the surrounding vineyards, its 19th-century mansion façades giving little indication of the chalk cellars beneath them, where Moët & Chandon, Perrier-Jouët, Pol Roger and several other major houses store an estimated 200 million bottles under ideal ageing conditions at any given time. Tours of the houses reveal the centuries-old production methods – the disgorgement process, dosage decisions and the stylistic differences between the major houses – that helped establish Champagne’s global reputation, while the Belle Époque architecture above ground reflects the prosperity the industry brought to the region.

    THREE-DAY PARIS ITINERARY

    Three Days in the City of Lights

    DAY ONE

    Start your morning at the Louvre – pre-booked timed entry is essential, and arriving early gives you the best chance of seeing the galleries at their quietest. The Mona Lisa may be the most famous attraction, but the Egyptian antiquities, the Napoleon III Apartments and the vast French paintings displayed across entire galleries of their own are among the most memorable spaces in the building. Even a few hours only scratches the surface – so it helps to choose a handful of areas and explore them properly rather than trying to see everything.

    Time for lunch. Head to Marché des Enfants Rouges in the Marais, Paris’s oldest covered market. Operating since 1615, it’s one of the city’s liveliest lunch spots, with food counters serving everything from long-established French dishes to Moroccan, Lebanese and Japanese cooking beneath the market’s historic iron framework. The surrounding streets of the Marais are worth an hour’s wandering afterwards – Place des Vosges, the Musée Picasso and the Jewish Quarter around Rue des Rosiers all within easy reach.

    This afternoon revolves around Notre-Dame – recently reopened after the 2019 fire. The often-overlooked Crypte Archéologique beneath the cathedral square reveals layers of the city’s Roman and medieval past. Nearby Île Saint-Louis presents a quieter side of central Paris, its elegant townhouses and narrow streets feeling distinctly removed from the crowds on the opposite bank. And a late-afternoon Seine cruise puts all of the day’s landmarks into a wider context from the water.

    As evening falls, head to the Eiffel Tower for sunset. It’s one of the most popular times to visit, and the second-floor observation deck strikes an excellent balance between scale and detail.

    Dinner awaits without leaving the tower itself: at the two Michelin-starred Le Jules Verne, which combines one of the city’s strongest fine-dining experiences with a view that very few restaurants can match.

    DAY TWO

    Begin your morning in the eastern arrondissements – around Bastille, Oberkampf and the 11th arrondissement, neighbourhood cafés, independent shops and food markets sit among some of the city’s most interesting contemporary restaurants, so it’s all markedly different from the landmarks and monuments of your first day.

    Lunchtime beckons at Du Pain et des Idées on Rue Yves Toudic in the 10th, one of the city’s most celebrated bakeries. Opened in 1875 and still operating from its original premises, it is best known for its pistachio escargot pastries, though the traditional breads are just as impressive.

    Your afternoon leads you to Père Lachaise Cemetery in the 20th arrondissement, one of the most visited cemeteries in the world and the final resting place of figures including Oscar Wilde, Édith Piaf, Proust, Frédéric Chopin and Jim Morrison (the map available at the entrance is essential). Yet much of its appeal lies beyond the famous names. Covering 110 acres, the tree-lined avenues, elaborate monuments and quiet corners make it feel more like a park than a cemetery, as atmospheric a place for a walk as you’ll find anywhere in the city.

    Explore Paris’s long association with absinthe at one of the Belle Époque bars nearby. Establishments such as La Fée Verte and Lulu White give you the chance to sample the drink that became synonymous with artists, writers and musicians during the late 19th century, while preserving something of the spirit associated with its heyday.

    For dinner, head to Le Train Bleu at Gare de Lyon. Opened for the 1900 Exposition Universelle, its richly decorated interiors of murals, chandeliers and gilded ceilings make it one of the most spectacular dining rooms in Paris. The setting may be grand, but the menu is firmly rooted in French classic cooking, making it a fitting end to a day spent exploring a different side of the city.

    DAY THREE

     Your final morning is dedicated to Versailles. Built for Louis XIV and expanded across several subsequent reigns, the palace is one of the most ambitious royal residences ever constructed. Arriving early allows time to explore not only the Hall of Mirrors and State Apartments but also the gardens, whose scale can be difficult to appreciate until you’re walking through them.

    A special lunch at Ducasse au Château de Versailles at the Airelles Le Grand Contrôle which holds one Michelin star and is one of the most unusual dining settings in France. Nearby, the newly opened La Table des Jardiniers takes Ducasse’s cooking in a more laid-back direction – pot-au-feu, blanquette de veau, onion soup – overlooking the gardens. Both make it easy to extend your time at Versailles without feeling rushed.

    Afternoon adventures take you back into Paris to spend the rest of the day in Montmartre. Although closely associated with the artists who lived and worked here in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, much of its appeal comes from its distinctive character: steep streets, staircases, small squares and views that are patently different from the rest of the city.

    Early evening leads you to the beautiful Sacré-Cœur. The steps below the basilica are one of the most popular viewpoints in Paris, particularly as the light begins to soften across the rooftops and the city stretches away towards the horizon.

    For your farewell dinner, stay in the neighbourhood at Le Moulin de la Galette – the restaurant occupying the windmill that Renoir painted in 1876. The terrace looks out across the rooftops towards the Seine, and the menu is classic French bistro: the kind of French cooking that never really goes out of fashion. Alternatively, from Wednesdays to Sundays, La Maison Rose on Rue de l’Abreuvoir is another Montmartre institution. Open since 1908 and once frequented by Picasso, its pink façade is one of the most recognisable sights in the neighbourhood.

    Afterwards, take time for one last walk through Montmartre for a fitting final glimpse of a city that reveals itself between the landmarks.

    PRICING
    EDEN’s holidays are customised to your own unique preferences, meaning every quote is bespoke.

    PRICING
    EDEN’s holidays are customised to your own unique preferences, meaning every quote is bespoke.

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