Thursday 8th

Well it’s been a long day, but we’ve survived to tell the tale. We’ve arrived in Lima, our gateway to “deepest, darkest” Peru. We have a travelling Paddington joining us in various photo opportunities, and we watched “Paddington in Peru” on the plane – very amusing with many laugh-out-loud moments.

Our first impressions of Peru: the traffic is not good, as is common with most cities. But it was a pleasant enough drive to the hotel, along the coast road which has been built on land reclaimed from the sea and provides an extensive playground for city inhabitants with sports facilities and recreations. Our hotel Miraflores Park is perfectly located overlooking the sea. The furnishings are beautiful and the staff are lovely – nothing is too much trouble. We were too tired to do much more than drink a glass of wine on the terrace of the 11th floor restaurant. At less than 200 metres above sea level, there’s no sign of altitude sickness yet! Sarah speaks a little Spanish which comes in handy in South America.

Friday 9th

Jet lag city unfortunately. We were expecting the sun to rise soon after 6am and were up and ready for a pre-breakfast stroll. The sun may well have risen somewhere, but it was most certainly not visible in Lima! Overcast and humid, with no view of the sea whatsoever. As I looked out of my window at 6.30am, all I could see was joggers everywhere, taking it very seriously indeed!

We enjoyed our walk along the promenade with a vague view of a murky sea. Everywhere is beautifully landscaped and dotted with lovely coffee shops and sculptures. Breakfast was absolutely delicious – best avocado on toast I’ve ever tasted.

We had a four-hour tour of Lima with the lovely Ada who spoke beautiful English. This included the stunning cathedral, various palaces, and a beautiful convent being restored, which houses the oldest library in Lima. The highlight was probably the Art Museum where we were given a private tour of selected art, textiles, ceramics and paintings. The tour ended with a bottle of champagne – how often does one visit a museum and finish with a free glass of bubbly!

We walked along the front this afternoon when the sun finally made an appearance. We browsed shops and drank coffee in the sunshine, watching the surfers ride the waves.

Some statistics: There are 33 million people living in Peru, of which 11 million reside in the capital Lima. Despite the traffic, it doesn’t feel crowded. Lima is very dry with only one centimeter of rain per year, but they water trees and flower beds constantly so it’s all very lush and green.

Saturday 10th

Goodbye to a cloudy Lima this morning as we headed off early for our flight to Cusco. Sarah saved the day with a packaged breakfast from the hotel, which we enjoyed in the chaotic domestic airport.

Our first impression of Cusco: it’s not at sea level so it’s our first experience of altitude. Quite honestly, it hasn’t hit us yet – still breathing normally, eating normally, still able to climb steps. We have a new guide, Joaquin, who is very pleasant and informative.

Our afternoon drive to the hotel was beyond spectacular. The scenery is to die for! The mountains are huge, steep and scarred by centuries of water cutting through the rock. The sunshine played beautifully on the landscape.

Our first stop was an Alpaca Farm where we fed the alpacas and saw exactly what they do with the wool. It was very interesting and pleasantly tourist-free. We had a delicious lunch with stunning views of the Sacred Valley, before travelling into the town of Pisac which we absolutely loved. Shopping opportunities resulted in an alpaca throw, a fluffy alpaca and a colourful bag, to add to my jacket and glass fish from yesterday (not to mention all the freebies we’ve been given to date). Wonderful stuff!

Our new hotel, Rio Sagrado (part of the Belmond group as with all the hotels in this trip), is beautiful, set in lush gardens on the side of a river with magnificent mountains as a backdrop. The rooms are gorgeous, with small gardens overlooking the river. There’s nothing nicer than the sound of water in the background. We were too tired for dinner, but we did manage a glass of wine at the bar, listening to excellent local musicians create a very pleasant, relaxing and easy atmosphere. A long but very enjoyable day.

Sunday 11th

We have just had the most fantastic day imaginable… and we haven’t even been to Machu Picchu yet! We were drinking our coffee at breakfast, enjoying the most glorious view of the gardens and listening to the river, when a large group of baby alpacas ran towards us from the trees. Apparently, it’s a regular daily occurrence at 8am – hotel guests feeding the babies. They were absolutely delightful and drank milk eagerly from bottles. Sarah was wondering if we could hide the little one in our suitcase! However, they’re only tame and friendly if there’s milk available, otherwise, they’re just not interested!

The sun was shining at last, so off we went with Joaquin to the beautiful town of Ollantaytambo, which has been inhabited since Inca times. There is the most impressive Inca fortress, with terraces which we climbed (260 steps) to enjoy more spectacular views. It was hard work in the warm sunshine and altitude but absolutely worth every exhausting step. The town is very pretty with narrow cobbled walkways, a lovely town square and stunning views in every direction.

I didn’t think we could beat that… but we did. We drove to Moray on the steepest, narrowest, bumpiest road imaginable. The views were indescribable – mountains, glaciers, rivers, fields, villages… and the colours! No photos that can possibly ever do this place justice! It brought tears to my eyes. At the end of the drive was an Inca site of terraces arranged in concentric circles – I’m not quite sure what we were expecting, but it wasn’t that. I’ve never seen anything like it. We continued to Maras, famous for salt pans which have been harvested for over 400 years.

We’d been promised a picnic and naturally assumed we’d be eating somewhere with a nice view. We were driven to the edge of a lake, with a backdrop of stunning mountains, to find a beautiful setup waiting for us. A welcoming committee serving drinks and canapés, a lovely sitting area of brightly covered rugs and cushions, a covered area with a table overlooking the lake where all our food was served, and chefs cooking a series of delicious courses. It was absolutely exquisite – one of those pinch yourself moments. A stunning end to a perfect day.

Given that we ate our body weight in food this afternoon, we didn’t show our faces for dinner. Sarah relaxed in the spa, and I spent the evening wondering how I am going to bring everything home! My case is no longer big enough! We’re off to Machu Picchu tomorrow (surely it can’t beat today). We can only take an overnight bag on the train whilst our cases go by road to the next hotel. It’s complicated, working out what we’ll need, especially because the weather is all over the place.

Monday 12th

Machu Picchu! How could I ever have doubted you!! Another amazing day and one I will remember for the rest of my life. Such a wonderfully unique experience, and another reminder of just how lucky and privileged I am!

It was surreal sitting at the station this morning, in the sunshine, sipping champagne, waiting for the Hiram Bingham Train, named after the explorer who discovered Machu Picchu. The train was stunning and we were lucky enough to have a table for four between the two of us with uninterrupted views on both sides. We chugged along at a very leisurely pace, beside the river in the Urubamba Valley, surrounded by mountains and beautiful countryside. We enjoyed a delicious lunch accompanied by drinks. The best bit was the open deck observation car, with fabulous views at the rear of the train, live music, and more refreshments. I cannot describe just how beautiful this once-in-a-lifetime experience was. I felt very emotional and honestly didn’t want it to end.

We arrived at Aguas Calientes, where we took a fabulous bus ride up the mountain (very narrow, steep and bendy) to our new hotel Sanctuary Lodge.

Then it was onto the main event – the citadel of Machu Picchu with our guide Joaquin. As we handed in our tickets, the morning sunshine gave way to dark clouds and spots of rain! Despite the darkening skies, the scenery was dramatic – massive steep vertical-sided mountains dominating the view. And then there it was – almost suspended in the mist and cloud in the centre of the mountains. It really does take your breath away. We walked for over two hours, taking hundreds of photos, and the sun actually came out for 30 minutes which was a real bonus. My favourite view was looking down on the citadel, rather than wandering around the individual structures. And, amazingly, it was relatively tourist-free. There are only 4000 ticket holders per day, which sounds a lot, but is actually very little when spread over a full day.

It was then back to the hotel to check in (we’d literally just flung our bags in earlier before starting the trek). It’s a pleasant enough hotel – the room is smaller than the others we’ve had, but there’s a garden patio and enough freebies to sink a battle ship. I didn’t really have high hopes for dinner, but low expectations are always guaranteed to bring a sense of relief and enjoyment. A fabulous waiter, delicious food and brilliant entertainment. A fantastic end to the most incredible day. They don’t come better than this!

Tuesday 13th

Another fabulous day at Machu Picchu. We did a couple of treks: the first was lower down in the citadel and involved walking through buildings which have been restored over the years. It was interesting, learning how the Incas lived, but I prefer the view from above. The afternoon walk was higher up, providing the traditional views of the citadel. It was warm and mostly sunny, much better for photos, but seemed busier than yesterday. It is a truly magical and mystical place that you really have to experience for yourself.

We had a lovely lunch at the hotel and were really sad to leave. Although surrounded by thousands of tourists every day, it was a haven of peace and tranquillity inside, with lovely grounds and natural water features. We returned to Aguas Calientes by bouncy bus and took the opportunity to have our photograph taken with Paddington Bear.

Then it was a 3.5-hour journey to Cusco, partly by train and the remainder by car. We were spoiled on the Hiram Bingham train on the way out. This return trip on the Vistadome was quite different – more of a party atmosphere with musicians, a fashion show, and souvenir sales. Having said that – this is me – so I bought a scarf featured in the fashion show!

We arrived at our hotel at around 8.30pm – absolutely exhausted. It’s called Monasterio, another Belmond Group hotel, and – as the name suggests – it used to be a monastery. It’s absolutely stunning and the rooms are amazing with unusual artwork and a sitting room upstairs. We passed through a beautiful square only 5 minutes from here with some lovely shops, so I know where we’ll be spending our free afternoon tomorrow! But first, we have a half day tour of Cusco which includes a cathedral, temple and fortress. And, for the first time this holiday, we’re expecting blue sky sunshine and over 20 degrees!

Wednesday 14th

Another wonderful day. I opened the shutters to blue sky sunshine! At last! Followed by a fabulous breakfast overlooking a pretty courtyard of fountain, trees and flowers. This hotel is incredible.

Our morning trip started in the main square in Cusco (which is, without exaggeration, the most beautiful square I have ever seen on my travels). It is just stunning. We visited the Santo Domingo Temple and the Cathedral, both historically significant sites, and then took a tour of the Sacsayhuarman Fortress which has amazing views of Cusco. It’s an Inca site of absolutely gigantic stones – how did they construct that? Then we were promised a “surprise” – a visit to a beautiful hotel with remarkable views of the whole of Cusco where we sat in the sunshine, enjoying a cocktail with delicious canapés. Absolute bliss!

Sadly, after five days, it was time to say goodbye to our guide Joaquin. He’s been a very pleasant and interesting companion and we’ve really enjoyed his company. But we now had a free afternoon and guess what we did! Yep! We mooched around the shops which are absolutely gorgeous. All very small, very colourful and set along attractive narrow cobbled streets. We found a fabulous cafe overlooking the main square and “people watched” for an hour (with a coffee and a very large piece of chocolate cake ).

After that, we had our first “night out” – this was the first evening we’ve had the energy to do anything other than go to bed early! We had champagne and dinner at a restaurant recommended by our guide. He was absolutely spot on. It was just the best evening – a lovely table in a window alcove, friendly attentive waiters, the most delicious food… and only 100 metres from our hotel.

We’re leaving Cusco tomorrow morning for the Andean Explorer for three days and two nights through the Andes to Lake Titicaca. The train stops at regular intervals for trips to various places of interest and, in between, there is breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea, cocktails and dinner. Good job these altitude sickness tablets aren’t affecting my appetite – I would hate to miss out on that lot!!!

Thursday 15th

We started the day with a champagne reception at the hotel before joining the Andean Explorer. It was all very exciting as we boarded in the sunshine and enjoyed our welcome drink in the observation car. The train takes up to 70 people but there are only 40 of us which is a bonus.

And so to our cabins which were fabulous. A reasonable size with a double bed, two armchairs and a table, reasonable storage… and the smallest bathroom known to man. I was like an excited child in a sweetie shop. There are more gifts – a beautiful alpaca throw, colourful slipper socks and water bottles (bringing the water bottle total to five!). All gorgeous.

And then we were off, chugging slowly out of the station at a regal and leisurely pace. The views just got better and better, but sadly, no camera can do justice to what we saw.

Lunch was leisurely and delicious, with beautiful views and friendly service. Then we were off on our first trip – a choice between an archaeological site or a trek up a hill for stunning views. We chose the latter and were well rewarded. It was hot and sunny but the majority of the walk (which included steps along the famous Inca Trail) were in dappled sunshine.

Back on the train, they continued to provide snacks and drinks – it’s never ending and, if we had said yes to all food offerings this holiday, we wouldn’t now be able to access our tiny bathroom! Then, on returning from a delicious dinner,  hoping the gentle chugging will help me sleep, I looked back on what was a truly amazing day with stunningly beautiful and ever-changing scenery, absolutely delicious food, a constant flow of refreshments, friendly staff, cozy accommodation, and ever more gifts. I’ve really lost count of everything we’ve been given, but we each seem to have amassed five water bottles, a back pack, pillow spray, a woven name tag, a set of miniature toiletries, a plastic mac, a Peruvian flag pin, a horse decoration, a key ring, slippers, an alpaca throw, slipper socks, chocolates (by the ton), champagne… And so the list goes on and on. I’ve also bought a lot: a jacket, jumper, throw, scarf, key ring, glass ornament… So the big question is, how are we going to get it all back? Sadly, I don’t think we’ll be able to (although we’ve already drunk the champagne and consumed most of the chocolates)!

Friday 16th

We woke to blue sky sunshine. Bliss. There was an option to get up to watch the sunrise at 5.15am over Lake Titicaca. We declined! But we did get up reasonably early for breakfast in advance of a full day tour which included a boat trip to an island made of reeds which houses around five families with a talk and a visit to one of their houses to see how they lived; after which we hopped on a large reed canoe-like boat which was gracefully and silently propelled by a man with a long stick. The water was so blue and absolutely still, the scenery was breathtaking, and I could quite happily have stayed out on the lake all day.

But we had places to go. Another island, natural this time, which was small with a pretty beach and a restaurant for lunch. It was pleasant, with a champagne reception in the sunshine and a stunning view of Bolivia in the background, with snow-capped mountains.

We slept on the boat on the way back to the train, but there was no rest on our return. Afternoon tea was served in a local “warehouse” – an experience which they totally undersold. I expected paper cups and a buttie on a concrete floor. But of course this is Belmond. Instead, it was a beautifully furnished room dressed in typical bright Peruvian colours, with a roaring fire, a violinist, and a delicious selection of food. I didn’t think I could fit in another morsel, but apparently I was wrong – I filled my plate and demolished the lot! Then, after a quick drink in the bar, it’s time to get ready for evening cocktails and dinner. It’s a tough job, being force fed on a luxurious train, chugging through the Andes. But someone’s got to do it, and it may as well be me!

Saturday 17th

Another fabulous day – one of even more breathtaking scenery!

As planned, we were up at 4.45am to leave the train by 5.15am to climb up a hill in the dark to a very welcome roaring fire. We were two of only seven hardy souls to watch the sunrise, and there were moments when we wished we hadn’t! It was absolutely freezing with a harsh wind from the snow-capped mountains, but we were rewarded by a lovely sunrise, revealing that we were standing between two lakes, surrounded by mountains. It was glorious, but we positively sprinted back to the train when it was all over to the warmth and bliss of a well earned breakfast.

Our trip today was short but pleasant – a leisurely walk down to the Sumbay Caves which feature paintings dating back 6000 years! Unfortunately, we had to climb back up– it may have seemed leisurely on the way down, but it was anything but on the way up! The altitude sickness has not been as bad as previous trips (I still have my appetite and I can walk more than four paces at a time) but I can’t pretend I’m feeling well, and the nights are awful with terrible breathlessness.

However, we spent a wonderful hour back on the train as we journeyed through the high Andes with the most spectacular scenery – volcanoes, snow-capped mountains, lakes, beautiful rock formations. But sadly, all good things must come to an end and we were clapped off the train by the amazing staff at 11.30am for the long drive to our next hotel.

I slept in the car, but we also enjoyed beautiful scenery as we drove down from 4500m to 3800m. Doesn’t sound like a big deal, but it makes a huge difference to the vegetation (as well as to our health). Our new hotel is Las Casitas in the Colca Canyon and it is stunning and probably the best yet! The grounds are absolutely beautiful with spectacular views in every direction. Our rooms are unbelievable – we each have our own little villa with a private garden and views to die for. A huge bedroom with four poster bed leads onto a terrace with sunloungers, table and chairs and a hot jacuzzi pool. Inside there is a dressing room leading into a massive bathroom with indoor and outdoor showers.

Our evening consisted of a delicious meal in the restaurant where we bumped into 14 fellow travellers from the train. The food was fantastic and returning to our rooms we we were welcomed with a llama-shaped hot water bottle in the bed and a roaring fire in the bedroom. I could happily live here!

It’s an early start tomorrow morning to spot the condors. Can’t wait!

Sunday 18th

A spectacular day – Magnificent Condor Day. We left the hotel at 7.30am to drive to Colca Canyon, which just has to be one of the most impressive sights I have ever seen. The depth of the canyon is between 1000-2500 metres. It is really steep-sided and, although it looks like you could throw something to the other side, it is actually between three to five kilometres wide. The scale is hard to describe. So the condor, which has a 10ft wing span, is a mere speck in the sky in such an environment.

We walked to a tourist-free vantage point and, unbelievably, within 20 seconds of arriving saw our first condor. They soar so gracefully and are absolutely magnificent birds. They can live to around 50 years and breed every two years. We must have seen over 20 of them in the next half hour (their activity peaks in the canyon between 8am-10am) but they are very difficult to photograph. They are vultures and spend time during the rest of the day looking for carcasses, but may not eat for a couple of weeks.

After all the condor excitement, we travelled by car along the side of the canyon, stopping frequently at vantage points. It was so spectacular and if I could only visit one location – Colca Canyon or Machu Picchu, it would be the canyon. The massive scale and majestic drama was absolutely stunning.

We also visited a church and a small town before returning to our gorgeous hotel, where we relaxed in Sarah’s garden and she took a dip in the pool. All very pleasant and a lovely end to a perfect day. We leave tomorrow morning for a 3.5-hour drive to Arequipa, with a picnic lunch on the way, and a three-hour city tour when we arrive.

Monday 19th

A long and tiring day but definitely worth it. We left our beautiful hotel this morning for our four-hour car trip to Arequipa, the White City. The scenery was spectacular for the first couple of hours as we climbed higher and higher, then deteriorated as we descended to only 2300 metres and the outskirts of Arequipa (the lowest altitude since Lima).

Our new hotel, Cirqa, is absolutely unique and stunning. It’s attached to an old church and is just a mass of interesting corridors, stone walls and floors, little staircases, and it has to be said, very little natural light. But the rooms are lovely – very modern, and perhaps designed for looks rather than logistics – but there are chocolates and furry slippers, so who are we to complain!

We managed a quick picnic lunch before meeting our guide Herman for a walking tour of Arequipa. Our expectations were not particularly high, but how wrong we were! It’s absolutely delightful: cobbled streets, churches on every corner, beautiful courtyards everywhere with welcoming restaurants and stylish shops, and the most glorious square which had me gasping as it came into view. There’s a cathedral and a central fountain surrounded by trees and flowers, with arched walkways and restaurants above, no traffic, glorious snow-capped volcanoes as a backdrop, and warm sunshine. It was perfect.

But the biggest surprise was the Santa Catalina Convent, built during the 16th century to house the daughters of the wealthiest families in the city. It was huge with walkways in all directions which gave a feeling of small town, beautiful squares with fountains, and so extensive you would literally get lost. They were able to buy their own house which consisted of a bedroom, sitting room, kitchen and steps up to a terrace. They were allowed a servant to help with the chores. It was stunning and astonishing in equal measure.

We had a lovely meal that evening and were ready to pack for our long journey home. We leave Arequipa tomorrow morning for our flight to Lima, where we connect for our KLM flight to Amsterdam.

Tuesday 20th

We’re leaving Peru today and we’re coming home! It’s going to be a long-winded journey back with three interconnecting flights.

So, a summary of my thoughts on Peru. I would probably rate it as my favourite country in South America (with Chile a very close second). There is just SO much to see and do and we’ve certainly seen and done more than our fair share.

There has been a lot of travelling (flights, train, boat and car) as well as walking, and we’ve somehow managed to fit in eight hotels in just 13 days, so it would be the understatement of the year to say it was often challenging!

My highlights? Machu Picchu rates incredibly highly on anyone’s bucket list, and it certainly did not disappoint. Well worth the trip for that alone. But Peru is so much more than Machu Picchu. The scenery (particularly the Andes) is amongst the most dramatic, majestic, extraordinary and breathtaking that you will see anywhere in the world. It genuinely brought tears to my eyes on occasion.

My favourite hotel was Las Casitas in Colca Canyon. It was extraordinary, set up like a picture perfect farm with pools and running water, wild flower meadows, vegetable gardens, grazing llamas (with a 3 day old baby), pretty villas with gardens and private pool, a stunning restaurant with delicious food and friendly staff, surrounded by snow-capped volcanoes. And to cap it all, it was literally just down the road from Colca Canyon, from where we enjoyed the most dramatic of views and the soaring condors. For me, Colca Canyon (the scenery, the condors and the hotel) was definitely the highlight of Peru.