Oh-so-Thailand




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    Oh-so-Thailand

     

    A trip to Thailand is full of adventure, fun and flavour; and Travel Director, Tara Lloyd simply couldn’t get enough on her latest trip, taking in the best of Bangkok and Koh Samui…

    Eden original

    Words by

    CITY SLICKERS

    BANGKOK

     

    “When my other half and I were planning our latest adventure, we wanted somewhere we could dive head-first into culture, food and beaches too.

    Cue Thailand – home to my very favourite cuisine – a chaotic capital full of vibrancy, local colour and a bounty of beautiful beaches.

    First stop, Bangkok. We stayed at The Siam and, from the moment we walked in, we slipped easily into relaxation mode. The staff were so friendly and we loved the super-personal service – it wasn’t even 24 hours before everyone was calling us by name. It also has a whole lot of personality, with memorabilia across all eras on show throughout and slightly more random touches dotted around – like the collection of old dentist chairs and architect drawing tables!

    Location-wise, it’s ideal. Set in the historic Dusit District, (known as Bangkok’s new Royal City) and right on the banks of the Chao Praya River, close to the Krung Thon Bridge, it’s easy to access most of the city’s points of interest on foot, a short Tuk-Tuk ride, or the hotel’s complimentary boat.

    The palace and historic neighbourhood around The Siam is filled with medical schools and universities and, to accommodate this diverse group and tastes, an army of street vendors have flocked here from all over the country – and some even as far as Laos – so it’s a real treat to go for a morning walk and take in the multitude of aromas and flavours from across the Kingdom.

    There’s a hidden gem of a restaurant just around the corner from The Siam too – Steve Café & Cuisine – one of those ‘word of mouth’ type of places, right on the river with fabulous views and home-cooked, freshly prepared local Thai food (so it goes without saying pre-booking is essential).

     

     

    BANGKOK NIGHTS

     

    As Bangkok comes alive when the sun goes down, it’s a great city for night-time strolls. You can take The Siam’s boat to Memorial Phra Pokklao Bridge and head to the Pak Khlong Talat, the city’s largest flower market.

    A feast for all the senses, this is Bangkok at its best: hot, humid and loud, every inch filled with delicate orchids, exotic roses and blossoms by the bushel. When you’re done at the flower market you can hop on a Tuk-Tuk, go around the Grand Palace and enjoy the finest street food at Jae Fai – a legendary street restaurant where the bowls of noodles will cost 10 times more than anywhere else, but are more than worth it.

    It’s a no-frills, cash-only place where mum still cooks every dish on her burners, and somewhere that gets so busy the staff at The Siam will pre-order for you so your food is ready when you are.

    If you’re a hayfever sufferer or simply can’t wait another minute to sample the local cuisine, then from Memorial Phra Pokklao Bridge head to the bright lights and busy streets of Chinatown. Lek & Ruk is an ideal spot for more authentic local dining.

    By day take the boat to Ratchawong Pier and head to Chinatown’s Sampeng Market – a maze of tightly packed alleyways, filled with everything you can imagine – and one of the only markets in the city that’s open during the daytime.

    And, for something completely different, head to the Chatuchak Weekend Market – one of the world’s largest, with such a diverse collection of merchandise it will bring even the most seasoned shopper to their knees.

    KOH SAMUI

     

    After all the exploring, a stay in Koh Samui was a welcome contrast to the hustle and bustle of Bangkok.

    It’s a great place to holiday during British summertime, with a much more relaxed pace, perfect for sampling spa treatments and yoga classes, island excursions and, of course, top of my list, even more fabulous food!  Here we stayed at the away-from-it-all paradise of the Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui.

    The views are quite spectacular from the moment you check-in at the arrival sala and it only takes around 20 minutes to get out and about for a real taste of the island. The residences are great for larger families or groups and, when it comes to the villas (all of which are vast and lovely), it’s the Beach Villa that stole my heart. With its direct beach access and a generous swimming pool, it’s great for couples or a small family as it’s literally just steps to the sand. But what we really loved about this place was that, even with occupancy at 95% during our stay, it only actually felt like a fraction of this.

    Big on extra-curricular activities, you can snorkel, dive and kayak to your heart’s content, take a temple tour or waterfall hike, or try anything from Thai boxing classes to ballet.

    Kids will have an amazing club house, beach and access to the water (all supervised of course) when the kids’ club relocates; and adventure seekers wanting to test their vertical limits can take the Four Seasons K2 hike – a trail of around 1250 steps which begins its ascent at “base camp” (the entrance to beachside restaurant Pla) and ends at the arrival sala 400 feet above sea level – best done in the cool of the morning and a great way to work up your appetite for breakfast. Or, if all you want to do is relax, snag yourself one of the hammocks set over the sea… perfect for keeping cool.

     

    While it’s unlikely you’ll want to leave the sanctuary of the Four Seasons, there’s a ton of sights to see in Koh Samui, whether you’re in a couple or travelling as a family.

    Head to Ang Thong National Marine Park – an archipelago of 42 islands in the Gulf of Thailand – and explore the towering limestone mountains, thick jungle, white-sand beaches, fertile mangroves, waterfalls and hidden coves and lakes. Or visit the Secret Buddha Garden – created by an old Samui fruit farmer and located on one of the island’s highest peaks in Surat Thani Province.

    Best reached on a 4×4 excursion, the gardens are cool and peaceful, shaded by thick jungle foliage with streams and waterfalls flowing throughout. Originally a haven for honeymooners, Koh Samui is pulling out all the stops to attract multi-generational families now too, so kids will equally have a whale of a time, with everything from butterfly gardens and elephant trekking, to go-karting and a cinema.

    Like Bangkok, Koh Samui is a real foodie paradise, with every cuisine imaginable. Every Sunday, Nikki Beach plays host to the island’s best brunch, served from 11am to 5pm, with seafood galore and super-attentive service. For dinner (and probably the best Panang curry I’ve ever tasted), Zenzibar Restaurant in Maenam is a must, right on the beach, so it’s perfect for that toes-in-the-sand dining experience. Oh, and don’t let the plastic tables and chairs put you off, as the service is really good, the food authentic and truly local.

    Then, for something a little more off-the-beaten-track, there’s Bang Po Seafood – a full-on Thai experience where you walk through the kitchen to get to the seating area. The tables are all on the sand and, if you go for dinner, you’ll have a lovely view of the fishing boats floating out to sea, all lit up in search of squid. Really pretty. It’s also super cheap!”

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