TEMPLES, TRAINS & TROPICAL BLISS




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    TEMPLES, TRAINS & TROPICAL BLISS

     

    “As many of you already know, my goal each year is to visit at least two new countries. And this year, the first opportunity pretty much fell into my lap when my son asked if he could go on a cricket tour to Sri Lanka. The form was signed immediately! What better way to combine watching my son play cricket and exploring such a diverse country?

    Eden original

    Words by

    Sri Lanka

    A Diverse Island Paradise

    Despite being a quarter of the size of the UK, the diversity in weather and geography was astounding. Where most countries have peak seasons, Sri Lanka always has somewhere with cooler or warmer weather. And, arriving in early July, I was surprised by the bountiful vegetation.

     

    Colombo: A Capital Time

    Our first stop was the capital, Colombo. Just a short drive from the airport, on the western coast, it’s the country’s biggest city – so it’s the best place to get a true sense of Sri Lanka’s urban life. Some might say to leave Colombo out of your itinerary altogether, but it’s definitely worth a couple of days exploring Pettah Market (a total sensory overload), the National Museum and the architectural marvel of Gangaramaya Temple. Top tip? Head to Galle Face Green in the evening and watch the sun set over the Indian Ocean.

    Also not to be missed is the food coma tour of hidden street food carts in the heart of the city, culminating at one of Colombo’s oldest, most popular dessert spots. You’ll sample some deliciously offbeat treats that are sure to ignite your senses. Our must-try dish was Kottu Roti, a mix of chopped flatbread with chicken and vegetables – it’s described by the locals as the equivalent to the British late-night kebab, which made us chuckle, but trust me, it’s so much better!

     

    Anuradhapura: Ancient Wonders & Local Life

    Venturing to the northern central province of Anuradhapura, we were all completely struck by the beauty of the man-made lakes which date back around 2000 years and encourage lots of wildlife (surprisingly, the country has no natural lakes whatsoever). Our sunset bike ride, through paddy fields and lakes, watching children splashing around in the water and ladies washing clothes alongside monks picking flowers for temple offerings gave us a genuine glimpse into local life and was one of many memories we’ll cherish forever.

    The following day, despite the struggle to wake everyone up at 5am, looking out from Pidurangala Rock to the plains below was another highlight and well worth the early start as, from here you have the best views of the famous Sigirya Rock with far less of a crowd. And, as we watched the sun emerge from distant mountains, I was so glad we’d made the decision to drive north. It has so much to offer, from its collection of ancient ruins, monasteries, palaces and other monuments to the all-encompassing jungle.

     

    The Iconic Train Journey: Nuwara Eliya to Ella

    During the planning stages of our trip, I knew that no visit to Sri Lanka is complete without a train journey. We opted for the most scenic route from Nuwara Eliya to Ella – so enchantingly beautiful it’s become a bucket list for many visitors in recent years, including me!

    There are four daily trains between Kandy and Ella and the trip takes between six and seven hours. But, if you drive to the town of Nuwara Eliya (dubbed ‘Little England’ due to its cooler climate and colonial-era bungalows), and take the train from there, it’s a more scenic and shorter (three hours) route. Passing through lush tea plantations and over the picturesque Nine Arch Bridge – designed by British engineer Harold Marwood – which soars over a jungle of plantain trees, the kids were fascinated by the history behind the railway, built when 19th-century plantation owners, frustrated with the roads, pushed for a rail system to transport the estate produce.

     

    Ella: Bags of Charm & Natural Beauty

    In central Sri Lanka, what was once a sleepy village, Ella is now bursting with cafés, bars and restaurants. The landscape is dominated by expansive, terraced tea plantations that cascade down verdant hillsides, interspersed by cascading waterfalls and breathtaking vistas.

    So, whether you love tranquil nature walks and hiking trails, picturesque scenery, or a more laid-back vibe, this little town has it all in spades. And the Nine Skies Plantation Lodge – a five-bedroom bungalow, majestically perched on a tea-fringed hill on the outskirts of Ella, was a huge highpoint for us.

     

    Yala: Wildlife Wonders

    Travelling south from Ella, we definitely saved the best for last – a safari in Yala National Park. Though incomparable to Botswana or seeing the Big Five, I do think that it’s a must when you’re in Sri Lanka. Home to an abundance of Asian elephants, sloth bears, crocodiles, jackals and magnificent bird species, it also has a high concentration of the super-elusive leopard. As the apex predator here, they have evolved and are much larger in size than those I’ve seen before, so it was a thrilling experience for us all. I’ll never forget my daughter’s face lighting up during a close encounter with these elusive creatures – or my own heartstopping moment when I discovered a huge land lizard under my sun lounger at UGA Chena Huts (but don’t worry, as the pool attendant told me, they’re as friendly as pet dogs)!

    Speaking of UGA Chena Huts, we absolutely loved it. Its location – bordering the Yala National Park, the Indian Ocean and a natural watering hole – is truly unique. The rangers are extremely knowledgeable and offer personalised safaris through Yala, its satellite parks and the very best attractions closeby (including blue and humpback whale-watching expeditions from Mirissa). It was here, while having a magical candlelit dinner on the beach, our meal was made absolutely unforgettable when a male elephant casually strolled along the shore. The looks of wonder on our children’s faces were priceless.

    There are some fantastic beach retreats in Sri Lanka too. Close to Yala Park is the South Coast; and you also have the East Coast, where you’ll find Passekudah – renowned for its stunning beaches, mesmerising coral reefs (ideal for snorkelling adventures), and the iconic Elephant Rock. We didn’t make it there this time, but we’ll definitely be back.

    In fact, Sri Lanka has something for everybody. Having visited many countries, I have to say that this one, for me, encompasses exactly what travel is all about. It would be extremely hard to find somewhere else with people who are so friendly and welcoming. The service everywhere was supreme; I loved the boutique-style properties – each steeped in history, uniqueness and charm; and the incredible cuisine – a testament to its central role in the spice trade – was a constant delight throughout.

    The Maldives

    Tune Out & Unwind

    After reuniting with our son post-cricket tour, we took off on the next part of our adventure – a long-overdue trip to the Maldives. Adding this destination onto a tour of Sri Lanka means you get to enjoy a host of engaging experiences and cultural immersion before spending some time tuning out and unwinding on those blissful champagne sands.

     

    One&Only Reethi Rah

    Just an hour’s flight away from Colombo, the seamless one-hour onward journey by yacht from Malé Airport to One&Only Reethi Rah and the warm welcome from our host certainly set the tone for the next part of our stay. There are so many amazing escapes in the Maldives, but for me One&Only is the real OG.

    One of the region’s largest, this octopus-shaped island is the epitome of luxury. And, when we entered our Beach Villa, I was delighted to see the kids rendered speechless – a rare occurrence indeed!

    As well as their own pool, all Beach Villas have uninterrupted views of the ocean and, as the name suggests, direct access to the beach. With a choice of hammocks strung between the palm trees and oversized day beds, it was easy for each of us to find our own little hangout.

     

    Island Life

    Bike explorations became a favourite activity of ours. The morning rides to breakfast, cycling underneath canopies of jungle while glimpsing the ocean, will be another memory that’s hard to forget.

    When I speak to first-time visitors to the Maldives, the first question I’m usually asked is ‘will we be bored’ and ’will the island feel small?’ And, although some resorts can feel that way, Reethi Rah certainly doesn’t.

    There’s literally something for everyone, including tennis, paddle courts, a kids’ club, dive centre, gym and first-rate spa, and it was so heartwarming that each of us found our own “happy place.”

     

    Culinary Cravings

    Even the six restaurants – everything from Japanese to Middle- Eastern – catered to all of our tastes.

    The kids particularly loved the Italian restaurant, while evening cocktails, especially the spicy margaritas, became a cherished ritual for my husband and I as we watched the spectacular sunsets!

    Perfection is hard to achieve, but I would say we experienced it – and then some – during our time at One&Only Reethi Rah.

    Atlantis The Royal, Dubai

    Opulence & Innovation

    Now, you would think that, after such an epic trip, it was about time to head home… But school holidays are long guys! So, with the usual rainy UK summer weather looming large, I thought, ‘why not stop in Dubai for a quick visit… After all, it’s on the way home’! Dubai in July isn’t for the faint-hearted, but the lure of Atlantis The Royal definitely clinched it for us. Having burst onto the scene with a bang in 2023, with Queen Beyoncé herself headlining the opening, it’s firmly made its mark as one of Dubai’s most luxurious must-stays.

     

    Jaw-Dropping Juxtapositions

    It’s not just the celeb factor either. Arriving at this architectural marvel is a highlight in itself too. On our approach, my car enthusiast son’s jaw literally dropped at the sight of G-Wagons, Ferraris and Rolls-Royces lining the entrance. Then, stepping into the property, you’re entering a whole new empire of extravagance.

    A mammoth structure that dominates The Palm Jumeirah skyline, there are 795 rooms of unparalleled sophistication. But if you’re expecting over-the-top extravagance, you’re going to be surprised. After a swift VIP check-in, we headed to our room and found a refreshingly subtle approach to much of Dubai’s décor – muted tones and dark woods – with only small splashes of gold. The showstopper here though was the panoramic vista over The Palm skyline and Dubai Marina that left us all utterly awestruck.

     

    Indulgences Beyond Our Imagination

    Our stopover was marked by extraordinary experiences from beginning to end: from the celebrity chef restaurants (including outlets by Heston Blumenthal and José Andrés) to the futuristic Awaken Spa. Nothing prepared me for the desert sand and sweet date sugar infusion which left my skin absolutely singing.

    I’d also been told that breakfast was a big ‘event’ here too, and I have to agree – it’s probably the most out there breakfast experience in my 20-plus years in the industry – and the “Croffles” – a decadent combo of croissants and waffles – were a favourite with us all!

    Reflections

    As our trip came to an end, we reflected on the diversity we’d enjoyed – from the cultural richness of Sri Lanka to the serene splendour of the Maldives and the innovative opulence of Dubai. It reaffirmed our belief in the power of travel to broaden horizons, strengthen our bonds and create stories that will be cherished for years to come. As for all people, time is precious. You blink and all of a sudden, your children are teens. So, to be able to share my love of adventure and experience the world and all its different cultures with them, for me, is absolutely everything. And now, it’s onto planning my next trip… And I’m thinking… Japan!”

    Start planning your EDEN Luxury Holiday by getting in touch with one of our Personal Travel Planners.

    Start planning your EDEN Luxury Holiday by getting in touch with one of our Personal Travel Planners.

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