Eden Luxury Travel | Como Calling

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Grand Hotel Tremezzo had been on Nicky Edwards’ wish list for a long time, so expectations were fairly high before she even arrived. Thankfully, she found it didn’t disappoint.

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Words by NICKY EDWARDS | TRAVEL DIRECTOR

Grand Hotel Tremezzo had been on Nicky Edwards’ wish list for a long time, so expectations were fairly high before she even arrived. Thankfully, she found it didn’t disappoint.

“We were incredibly lucky with the weather too – blue skies and sunshine for most of the trip, which made those famous Lake Como views even more spectacular. From the hotel you look straight across the water towards Bellagio, with mountains framing the lake behind it. When the sun catches the snow-capped peaks and the colours start changing across the water, it’s difficult to look anywhere else. And that view follows you almost everywhere.

First Impressions

Driving up to Grand Hotel Tremezzo doesn’t quite prepare you for what happens once you’re inside. You take the lift up to reception and step straight into a lobby of soaring ceilings, rich reds and golds and huge flower displays – simple clear vases filled with floating red roses rather than anything overly elaborate. Then you turn around and there it is: Lake Como, the villages on the opposite shore and the mountains beyond. There’s also a sweet table beneath beautiful glass domes filled with brightly coloured jelly sweets. Essentially a very glamorous pick ’n’ mix, and complete heaven for children.

We were taken straight to T Bar for lunch, where my bruschetta was everything it should be – ripe tomatoes, basil, olive oil and garlic – followed by sea bass with broccoli and a Spritz GHT, the hotel’s own take on an Aperol Spritz. Then came the tiramisu. I would never normally choose tiramisu, so the fact that I finished it probably says enough. It was incredibly light and creamy, almost mousse-like, and completely won me over.

Old School, New Tricks

Grand Hotel Tremezzo is gloriously opulent, but there are enough contemporary touches to stop all those rich colours, traditional furnishings and gold details becoming too formal. That balance was particularly noticeable in my Junior Suite Lake View. It felt grand but still comfortable, and naturally the first thing I did was throw open the balcony doors and look at the lake. That view never lost its impact. There were clever modern details too: a hidden television, a minibar concealed inside a traditional bureau and even Dyson hair stylers.

The rooms start with Prestige and Deluxe categories overlooking the park and gardens, while the Lake View rooms do exactly what their name promises. Junior Suites give you considerably more space, still with the rich colours and decorative details that run throughout the hotel. Then there are three Signature Suites, plus the Rooftop Suites right at the top of the Palace. These come with large terraces, private Jacuzzi mini-pools and some of the best views in the hotel – very special for a honeymoon or big anniversary.

In Search of Bobo

One of the loveliest things about Grand Hotel Tremezzo is how many places there are to sit and do absolutely nothing. There’s a little drawing room just off the main lobby that immediately feels calmer than the busier public areas, terraces looking out towards the lake and benches dotted along the panoramic path through the gardens. T Garden has soft sun loungers for lazy afternoons, while the five acres of botanical gardens behind the hotel are filled with olive trees, palms and paths winding up the hillside. I decided to explore them early one morning for one very important reason: I was looking for Bobo.

Bobo the Bear is Grand Hotel Tremezzo’s mascot, hidden at the top of the hill behind the hotel. Children who find him get to take a cuddly Bobo home, but apparently I didn’t need the promise of a teddy bear to get me out of bed early. The panoramic walk through the gardens is steep in places, so sensible shoes help, but there are benches along the way if you need a breather. And it is absolutely worth it. I reached the top as the sun was rising over the mountains behind Bellagio, with the lake stretched out below. It was one of my favourite views of the trip and, at that time of the morning, wonderfully peaceful. And yes, I did find Bobo.

A Little T Time

Grand Hotel Tremezzo has three heated pools, although unfortunately I didn’t have time to try them myself. The most famous is WOW – Water on the Water – the floating pool sitting directly on Lake Como. It’s certainly the most unusual of the three, although we were warned that even though the pool itself is heated, it can still feel chilly early in the season because the lake beneath it is glacial. The Flowers Pool sits within the gardens and has a much more secluded feel, while the third is an indoor infinity pool in T Spa, with views straight across the lake. T Beach, meanwhile, is where you can settle in by the water and make the most of the sunshine and lake views.

T Spa occupies an 18th-century villa and is smaller and more intimate than a sprawling resort spa. There are treatment rooms, a hammam suite and an indoor infinity pool overlooking the lake, with treatments using Santa Maria Novella skincare products. We didn’t have treatments during this visit, so I can’t speak to them personally, but the setting alone makes it an appealing place to retreat to when you want some time away from the busier parts of the hotel.

Gold Star Dining

There are four main restaurants at Grand Hotel Tremezzo, and choosing a favourite is almost impossible because they’re all doing something completely different. La Terrazza Gualtiero Marchesi was the big occasion dinner for us, and what an experience it was. The restaurant occupies a beautiful indoor-outdoor terrace overlooking the lake, lit by candlelight in the evening. It is also the only restaurant in the world serving the signature dishes of the late Gualtiero Marchesi, one of Italy’s most influential chefs. We had the tasting menu, and although everything was delicious, the showstopper was the famous saffron risotto topped with edible gold leaf. You even receive a certificate for the gold leaf on your dish. Completely unnecessary? Possibly. Did I love it? Absolutely.

L’Escale Trattoria & Wine Bar is much more relaxed, with vaulted ceilings indoors and a veranda that comes into its own in warmer weather, when you can dine looking out across the lake. The cooking is rooted in local dishes but given a modern twist, and some are finished at the table. The Tagliolini Cacio e Pepe with black truffle is one of the signatures and brings a little theatre to dinner without turning the whole thing into a performance. And if wine is your thing, there are more than 1000 bottles to work through.

On The Waterfront

Da Giacomo Al Lago is the place to be during the day. It sits directly on T Beach and specialises in seafood, with a relaxed, lively atmosphere that suits the waterfront setting perfectly. My favourite was the Crudi di Mare sharing platter – beautifully fresh seafood and exactly what I wanted beside the lake. Then there’s T Pizza, next to the Flowers Pool, serving proper Neapolitan-style pizzas, salads and smoothies beneath the shade of the gardens. It works brilliantly for a relaxed lunch or an easy dinner when you don’t necessarily want another full-scale restaurant experience.

There are also some lovely private dining possibilities through Dimmidisì, the hotel’s bespoke dining concept, which can set up dinners in secluded corners of the hotel and gardens. The location, lanterns, music and menus can all be tailored, with several settings looking towards Bellagio. It’s something I’d particularly consider for a proposal, anniversary or milestone birthday – less about booking another restaurant and more about creating your own little corner of the hotel for the evening.

A Very Good Vintage

The bars are just as inviting, whether you want coffee and a book in the afternoon or something stronger before dinner. The signature Negroni was particularly good, thanks to an Earl Grey-infused bitter that gives the traditional recipe an unexpected twist. I’d happily order another… purely for research purposes!

One of my favourite evenings began underground. Our wine tasting took place in the hotel’s beautiful rustic cellar, where the temperature was noticeably cooler than outside. We were wrapped in incredibly soft Tremezzo blankets while head sommelier Maurizio guided us through wines from several Italian regions. Those blankets nearly caused an additional shopping trip. Had I not been travelling with hand luggage only, I’m fairly sure one would have come home with me. The standout wine was an Etna Rosato from Terre Nere in Sicily – elegant, complex and, for me, love at first sip. The wines were paired with artisan meats and cheeses, but Maurizio was what made the evening. He has an extraordinary knowledge of Italian wine without ever making the experience feel intimidating, and his enthusiasm made the whole tasting feel personal rather than instructional.

Lake Life

No stay here would feel complete without getting out onto Lake Como itself. We took one of Grand Hotel Tremezzo’s vintage speedboats and cruised along the shoreline, passing famous villas, film locations and even a couple of celebrity homes. The lake is busy in high season because boats are one of the quickest ways of getting between towns, but they’re also the best way to appreciate the coastline. From the water, you really see how the villages, villas and mountains all fit together. And travelling across Lake Como in a vintage speedboat is hardly a bad way to get from A to B.

Bellagio is only around eight minutes away by ferry, so it would be a shame not to go. It’s exactly as charming as you hope it will be – steep cobbled streets, little shops, restaurants and views appearing between the buildings as you wander. I treated myself to a pashmina before stopping for coffee, and this is definitely somewhere where people-watching can consume considerably more of the afternoon than planned.

Art by the Lake

Another surprise of the trip was CASABIANCA, a contemporary art house on the shores of Lake Como. The elegant white marble villa is home to the private collection of Paolo and Antonella De Santis, owners of Grand Hotel Tremezzo, with around 50 works gathered over four decades and spread across three floors. The collection focuses on contemporary Italian and international art, particularly Arte Povera and post-war practices – movements I knew very little about before the visit but found fascinating.

What I liked most was how little CASABIANCA feels like a conventional museum. It still feels like a house. You can slow down, sit, look properly and spend time with the art rather than moving from one exhibit to the next. Lunch at Cova Casabianca was another highlight. The atmosphere was warm and buzzy, my Caesar salad was delicious and the pastries and cakes looked almost too beautiful to eat. Almost.

Final Thoughts

Grand Hotel Tremezzo had been sitting on my wish list for years and, after finally staying there, I understand why it has such a following. Yes, it’s grand. There are gold details, elaborate interiors, vintage speedboats, rooftop suites and even risotto served with edible gold leaf. But what I remember just as clearly are the quieter moments: opening my balcony doors first thing in the morning, watching sunrise over Bellagio after climbing the hill to find Bobo, sitting wrapped in a blanket in the wine cellar and finding little corners of the gardens where everything seemed to go still. The food was consistently excellent, the service was top-notch and there’s enough here that you could very easily forget to leave the hotel at all. But you should. Bellagio is minutes away, the lake is waiting outside the front door and there is far too much of Lake Como to see from dry land.

Would I go back? In a heartbeat.”

Como Calling

GRAND HOTEL TREMEZZO