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    Current Affairs

     

    From Lyon to Avignon, Louise Furniss discovers why exploring the Rhône with Riverside Cruises offers the perfect introduction to river cruising.

    Eden original

    Words by

     

    Nervous Beginnings

    “I’ll be honest: I was nervous. I’d never done any kind of sailing before, but riverboat cruising had always appealed – calmer water, closer to shore, that sort of thing. Still, I suffer with motion sickness, and five days aboard Riverside Ravel sailing the Rhône from Lyon to Avignon felt like a bit of a gamble. Turns out I needn’t have worried. I didn’t feel a thing.

    But absolutely everything else surprised me. Ravel measures 400 feet long but only 38 feet wide, designed specifically to glide through narrow locks and slip under the Rhône’s many bridges. The route – Lyon to Avignon over five days – stops at Vienne, Tain-l’Hermitage (famous for wines and chocolates), Viviers (France’s tiniest city), and Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Lyon alone justifies the journey with its secret passageways and world-renowned food culture.

     

    Cabin Revelations

    The first revelation was space – far more of it than I imagined. My cabin had a king-size bed dressed in crisp Frette linen, a large walk-in shower, and those deep river-view windows – the upper portion of which could be lowered when docked to let the outdoors in. They don’t do balconies on riverboats, I learned – it’s all about keeping the cabins generously sized. But this is the perfect setup for lazy afternoons watching the world slide by: villages drifting into view, vineyards unrolling across hillsides, sunlight catching the ripples on the water.

    Then there’s the service. Butlers are on hand 24/7 – by WhatsApp or in person – discreet, intuitive, and quietly brilliant. They’d clocked by day two that I’m not a breakfast person and appeared every morning with green tea before I’d even thought to ask. Excursion reminders appeared with the same thoughtfulness. Everything, from airport pickup to boarding, felt effortless and seamless – no queues, no waiting, no sense of being herded anywhere.

     

    Excursions Worth Pedalling For

    Life aboard Ravel is all glass and light – panoramic windows, open decks, reflections of the passing countryside at every turn. The top deck offers open-air lounging with shaded canopies, though I should mention: those many bridges along the Rhône, whilst beautiful, do limit full-day sun worship up there. Between meals and excursions, hours stretch out softly between sun, shade, and the gentle movement of the river. The excursions themselves were beautifully curated, and I loved that you could shape the pace of your day.

    My highlight was whizzing through the French countryside on an electric bike, passing fields of sunflowers and waving at locals, before stopping for a private vineyard tour and a glass (or two) of Côtes du Rhône. That particular cycle back took a little longer. Another evening we arrived at Châteauneuf-du-Pape to a violinist playing Bittersweet Symphony in the barrel room – one of those moments that stays with you. I also surprised myself by loving the truffle hunting – watching the dogs work, listening to a farmer who’s done it for decades. It was fascinating in ways I hadn’t anticipated.

     

    Michelin Standards, Zero Pretension

    Evenings are elegant but relaxed – people make an effort, but there’s no showiness. Guests ranged from couples in their thirties to American families experiencing France by water, solo travellers who seemed comfortable being on their own whilst still being part of the group if they wanted to be. I didn’t see children under twelve during our sailing, though they’re allowed – with no official childcare or kids’ clubs, it would fall entirely to parents.

    Dining on board is a highlight in its own right. The atmosphere feels like a Michelin-star restaurant minus the stiffness – elegant, relaxed, and deeply personal. The main bar remembers your favourite cocktail; you’re greeted by name. My standout evening was a private dinner in The Vintage Room, an intimate affair with a seven-course menu by Executive Chef Benoît Tesson and desserts by Nadezhda Maneva. From lobster-filled ravioli to fillet mignon and the most decadent chocolate fondant, each dish was paired with exceptional wines – Champagne Philipponnat Brut Royal Reserve to a 2017 Kracher that finished the evening beautifully.

    A Rhône Revelation

    When you travel like this, you begin to understand the appeal. You go to sleep, and by morning you’re moored beside a medieval town, able to step straight into its cobbled streets. Sometimes, after dinner, we’d wander off for a quiet glass of red at a local café, the lights of Ravel glinting on the river nearby. For someone new to sailing, it was an unexpected kind of serenity. The freedom to explore or do nothing at all. The ease of movement. The sense that every detail has been considered – but never forced. River cruising, I realised, isn’t just about seeing France differently; it’s about experiencing it at a different pace. Would I wholeheartedly recommend Riverside Ravel? Absolutely. Everything from the spacious cabins and intuitive service to the exceptional food and thoughtfully curated excursions exceeded expectations. For experiencing the Rhône valley – its wines, villages, and unhurried beauty – this is exactly how it should be done.”

    Start planning your EDEN Luxury Holiday by getting in touch with one of our Personal Travel Planners.

    Start planning your EDEN Luxury Holiday by getting in touch with one of our Personal Travel Planners.

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